Colombia is an incredible country with a huge amount of diversity. Each region has its own food, culture, music, history, vocabulary, architecture and incredible views. Many visitors will fly between the bigger cities and miss out on some of the best the country has to offer.
I have lived in Colombia for over 15 years and in this article, I will suggest a backpacking route to really connect with this country. From the Caribbean coast to the Andes mountains, across to the coffee region then down to the Tatacoa desert and much more in between, this guide should really help you plan your adventure through my favorite country.
2-3 Days in Bogota
Colombia’s capital Bogota is a great place to start. Situated at 2,625 meters above sea level, the sprawling city is home to over 11 million people. The weather in the city is unpredictable so take a jacket even if the sun is shining.
La Candelaria is the cobblestoned colonial-era city center with beautiful landmarks and charming streets. Plaza Bolivar sits in the center of La Candelaria and dates back to the sixteenth century. Surrounding this large square is the beautiful neoclassical Cathedral Basilica of the Immaculate Conception and Saint Peter, the home of the Colombian Congress the Capitolio Nacional and the mayor’s office situated at the Palacio Lievano.
Close to Plaza Bolivar, you can also visit The Gold Museum and the Botero Museum, celebrating the work of the famous Colombian artist Fernando Botero.
Bogota is also a great place to find a range of very good restaurants, artisanal coffee shops, stylish bars, fun clubs and lots of culture. You can also head up to the top of the Sanctuary of Monserrate on a challenging 90-minute walk or a quick cable car ride. At the top, you have an amazing view across the impressive city.
🚌 Travel to next destination: You can get a bus to Medellin from Terminal Salitre which should cost around 100,000 COP (USD $25). Buses leave regularly throughout the day and will take around 9 hours.
2-3 Days in Medellin
Medellin is known as the ‘city of eternal spring’ for its year-round warm weather and occasional heavy downpours which keep the remarkably green city fresh and beautiful. Once considered the murder capital of the world, it was recently named the world’s most innovative city. Medellin sits within a broad valley along a river with beautiful views all around.
You can visit Comuna 13 to learn about the transformation of one of the most troubled barrios into an art, music and cultural center. The whole area is filled with amazing graffiti with talented dancers and rappers performing plus there are great views over the city.
Another way to learn about the city is on the free walking tour with a guide taking visitors around downtown Medellin. It really is fascinating and a safe, interesting way to visit El Centro and learn about its history.
You can also take a cable car up to Santo Domingo, another transformed urban neighborhood, for amazing views of the city.
The Jardin Botanico next to Universidad station is free and a nice place to spend the afternoon. Alongside the botanical garden is Parque Explora, a fun interactive science museum, and the very impressive planetarium.
There are also amazing nightlife options in Medellin in Provenza (Poblado) or La 70 (Laureles). Medellin is one of the world capitals of reggaeton and the home of superstars such as Karol G, J Balvin and Maluma, so there are lots of opportunities to dance ‘perreo’ with the locals.
🚌 Travel to next destination: A bus from Medellin to Salento should be around 80,000 COP (US$20) and take about 6 hours.
2 Days in Salento and the Coffee Region
Salento is a smaller, picturesque town set in the hills of Colombia’s coffee region. One of the many inspirations for the Disney movie Encanto, the town has colorfully painted, traditional houses with balconies and overhanging roofs.
The town sits close to the Cocora Valley which has hundreds of remarkable wax palms, a national symbol and the tallest palm trees in the world. The trees are amazing, some over 200 feet tall with narrow trunks. I would strongly recommend hiking the Cocora Valley and experiencing the wax palms which are at risk of extinction in the coming decades.
🚌 Travel to next destination: You can get a bus from Salento terminal to Cali for around 50,000 COP (US$12) and it should take a little less than 5 hours.
2 Days in Cali
Cali sits in stark contrast to the peaceful town of Salento with its infectious energy and rhythms. Known as one of the world’s salsa capitals. The city has considerable cultural influence from the predominantly Afro-Colombian Pacific region which is reflected in the culture, music, food and energy.
The city has a large statue known as Cristo Rey which overlooks the city from high up on the hill, similar to the famous monument in Rio de Janeiro. Along the Cali River in the north of the city sits a bronze statue of a cat by Hernando Tejada. In 2006 15 further cats were added to the park and this is now a popular landmark.
When in Cali you really need to take some salsa classes and go out to party. Cali salsa is particularly fast and expressive, it includes a lot of very quick footwork and energy.
🚌 Travel to next destination: You can get a bus from Cali’s main bus terminal to Popayan for around 40,000 COP (US$10) and it takes about 3 hours.
1-2 Days in Popayán
The beautiful, historic city of Popayan will provide another change of pace from hot, lively Cali. Known as the “white city” for its stunning colonial houses, it is a city of great historic importance in Colombia.
The historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage site with well-preserved churches, plazas, streets and the beautiful neo-Roman Humilladero Bridge.
Semana Santa (Holy Week) is hugely important in Colombia and Popayan is at the heart of the national celebration. Every night the streets are filled with thousands of people watching the huge floats carried on the shoulders of volunteers.
🚌 Travel to next destination: A bus from Popayan to San Agustin takes about 5 hours and costs around 55,000 COP (US$14).
2 Days in San Agustin
San Agustin is a town in Huila situated along the Andes mountain range. The town is quaint with a pretty central square and an impressive church but what makes the region special is the nearby archaeological park.
San Agustin is a UNESCO World Heritage site which contains the largest collection of religious monuments and megalithic sculptures in Latin America, with many believed to date between 5 and 400 AD.
The 600 statues discovered so far depict both human and animal features with short legs and range in heights up to 7 meters. They are funeral monuments and were originally painted in bright colors but most of the color has been lost over time.
🚌 Travel to next destination: From San Agustin you get a bus to Neiva for 50,000 COP (US$12.50) then from Neiva a bus to the Tatacoa Desert for 15,000 COP (US$4). The journey to Neiva is around 5 hours then 1 hour to Villavieja in Tatacoa.
1 Day in the Tatacoa Desert
The Tatacoa Desert has a remarkable, beautiful landscape which looks like another planet. The Cuzco area has yellow and red sand while Los Hoyos is a cold, mysterious gray.
Tatacoa covers 330 square kilometers around the town of Villavieja with the eroded, dry peaks of the canyon creating smooth shapes. For me, it felt like a mix between walking on a distant planet and the set of a classic Wild West film with the golden hills and the cactuses.
At night the stars shine so bright in the sky and it is amazingly peaceful. There are a handful of hotels scattered throughout the desert.
🚌 Travel to next destination: You can get a bus from Neiva to Bogota which takes around 5 hours and costs 60,000 COP (US$15). The bus from Bogota to Villa de Leyva is about 3 hours and costs 40,000 COP (US$10).
2-3 Days in Villa de Leyva
Villa de Leyva is a colonial town in the Boyaca department of Colombia which was founded in 1572. Given the location at high altitude and with few valuable resources, the town was left untouched for the last 400 years as the rest of Colombia industrialized.
As a result, it is one of few towns in the country with the original style and architecture left fully intact. The central plaza is the largest cobbled square in South America surrounded by buildings that date back to the sixteenth century. It is a beautiful city which has become an important tourist destination and a center for art and culture.
🚌 Travel to next destination: The bus from Villa de Leyva to Tunja is 1 hour and 10,000 COP (US$2.50) and from there you can get a 5-hour bus to San Gil for 50,000 COP (US$12.50).
2-3 Days in San Gil
San Gil in the department of Santander has a population of just over 50,000. It was founded in 1689 and it has become a popular tourist destination, known as Colombia’s adventure capital.
The surrounded areas offer perfect spots for rafting (grade 1 to 5), kayaking, hiking and caving. Tour groups leave for Parque el Gallineral, which covers 10 acres along the Rio Fonce, or Parque Nacional del Chicamocha which is 1 hour from the town. Chicamocha has a museum, trails, rafting, paragliding and a unique cable car which crosses the canyon.
The town has a traditional feel with a nice central square but also has some fun nightlife when the sun goes down. A great base to explore the nature in the region and enjoy some unique experiences.
🚌 Travel to next destination: To get from San Gil up to Santa Marta you will need to take a long bus ride of over 12 hours for about 100,000 COP (US$20).
2-3 Days in Santa Marta and Tayrona National Park
Santa Marta is one of Colombia’s oldest coastal towns and a great place to stay and enjoy some amazing beaches.
To learn about the history and culture of the region you can visit the Museo del Oro Tairona, the Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino and the Catedral Basilica de Santa Marta. This will give you a great insight into the history and culture of the city.
El Rodadero is a nice beach in one of the more upmarket parts of the town while the fishing village of Taganga is another nice coastal spot 15 minutes from Santa Marta. Taganga has become a popular backpacker option with lots of hostels and fun nightlife.
Parque Tayrona is where you will find the best beaches and a really memorable experience. The natural national park covers 150 square kilometers of jungle, beach and sea filled with birds, monkeys and even a few jaguars.
🚌 Travel to next destination: There are regular buses from Santa Marta to Cartagena which take just over 4 hours and cost from 21,000 COP (US$4).
2-3 Days in Cartagena
Last but definitely not least is the beautiful, historic city of Cartagena. The old town is set within walls that date back to the 16th century with colonial squares, cobbled streets, churches and houses.
A very popular tourist destination, Cartagena is full of character offering some great restaurants, bars, clubs and cultural centers. You can enjoy some amazing seafood then sip cocktails in Cafe del Mar on the wall of the city watching the sunset before heading to Cafe Havana to dance to live salsa in a traditional 1950s Cuban-style club.
You can climb up to San Felipe de Barajas for some great views and to learn more about the history of this city. There is a long beach close to the city along Bocagrande but for the best beaches, I would recommend taking a boat to the nearby Rosario Islands.