Cartagena is a beautiful, magical city that offers visitors rich history, lively music, vibrant culture, delicious food and year round sunshine. What the city lacks is an amazing beach or the chance to swim in crystal clear waters surrounded by nature.
Fortunately, just an hour from the city you can find a chain of 27 pristine, tropical islands and islets.
The Rosario Islands are a must visit for anyone traveling to Cartagena but it is important to decide which one and how you are going to do it. Each island and beach offers a very different experience and there are a range of travel and hotel options depending on budget.
I have lived and worked in Colombia for 15 years and traveled to Cartagena on over a dozen occasions. Earlier this year I took my mum to Isla Grande and she loved it. In this article, I will help you decide which island is right for you and how to make the most of your time there.
Key Takeaways
- Isla Grande for a secluded tropical island getaway, Barú for white sands on a budget, Cholón for weekend party boats or private resorts for relaxation, comfort and convenience.
- Stay the night to enjoy real relaxation and tranquility once the day visitors have gone home.
- Barú can be accessed by taxi or bus but getting home can be tricky and may require a boat.
- Cholón at the weekend will be a dream for some and a nightmare for others.
- Never order anything without asking the price in advance as you are almost certain to be ripped off.
- Take full advantage of your trip by snorkeling, scuba diving, canoeing, cycling and exploring.
- The speedboat back from Isla Grande can be quite rough later in the afternoon.
Where are the Rosario Islands?
The Rosario Islands are a group of coral islands located approximately an hour away from Cartagena. Established as a protected national park in 1988, the area safeguards its rich coral reefs and diverse biodiversity.
Isla Grande is big enough to have a village with a small local community and multiple hotels while others have just a single property or are too small to be permanently inhabited.
Isla Barú is generally discussed alongside the Rosario islands although it is in fact a peninsula which since the construction of a new bridge in 2014 has been accessible by road.
What is the best way to go to the Rosario Islands?
Direct Speed Boat
You can get a speed boat from the Muelle de la Bodeguita (check the link to see the pin on Google Maps) on Pedro Heredia Avenue, just outside the walls of the old town. There is a 17,000 COP (US$4) port tax that you will have to pay before passing to the boarding area.
I would recommend arriving early in the morning (before 8am) and purchasing a ticket from one of the kiosks alongside the port. You will probably see sellers on the beaches and around town offering tours and boat tickets but will almost always be significantly more expensive than going to the port.
The speed boats can be quite bumpy, particularly if the water is choppy, and you will probably get a bit wet. I have seen complaints online but I found it comfortable enough. You can get a ticket to Isla Grande or Barú for around 50,000 COP (US$12) each way plus the 17,000 COP (US$4) port tax. Boarding can be very slow so bring a hat, water and try to find a chair with shade.
Often tickets are sold one way but it is also possible to book a return trip. When I spent the night on Isla Grande I scheduled the return boat for the following afternoon. There are no set ports or strict schedules on either Playa Blanca or Isla Grande so you will need to carefully confirm the exact pick up location and time.
I used WIFI at a hotel to communicate via Whatsapp to remain in contact and ensure we met our boat at the right location. They came directly to our hotel and it was no issue.
Hotel boat transfers and island day visits
Some of the more popular hotels offer a direct shuttle speed boat service which usually leave at 8.30am. This can be arranged when you make your booking and can offer added convenience for visitors if you are staying the night.
There are also a range of hotels which offer a day tour that allows visitors to use facilities, enjoy lunch and cocktails while relaxing by the beach. These can often be on private islands.
Some examples of hotels that offer this include:
- Bendita Beach
- Isla Del Pirata
- Isla Del Encanto
- Coralina
- Bora Bora beach club
- Isabela
- San Pedro de Majagua.
It usually takes around an hour to get to the island with boats returning to Cartagena around 2.30pm.
Not the cheapest option but very convenient and perfect if you want to enjoy the sun and sea on a beautiful island.
Catamaran Day Trip
If you don’t mind paying a little more to have the security of a dedicated guide and boat for your trip then this is a good option. Packages may also include a trip to the Oceanarium (a conservation center, home to more than 1,400 animals of 140 marine species), lunch, soft drinks and snorkeling equipment.
These day trips are usually around 7-8 hours, leaving in the morning and returning early evening. Prices can be around 400,000 COP (US$100) per person with port takes included.
Private Boat Rental
Renting a private boat with friends and an experienced local captain can also be a great option, particularly if you have a decent size group. This gives you the flexibility to go to whatever islands and beaches you like the sound of and move on when you are ready.
You can depart from a number of docks including Los Pegasos, Manga or Bocagrande, close to the old city center. Boats are generally available for the day from 1 million COP (US$250) upwards depending on the size and what is included.
Taxi
It is possible to reach Isla Barú and Playa Blanca (White Beach) by road making taxis, cars and buses an option.
Isla Barú is actually a peninsula but for many years the beaches were only accessible by sea as it was not possible to cross the Dique Canal. In 2014 the Barú Bridge was built creating a direct link to Cartagena and Barú.
A taxi from Cartagena will take around 1 hour and cost about 100,000 COP (US$25). This is the quickest and easiest way to arrive although, unless you can get a taxi to return later in the day or pay them to wait, won’t be an option to get home.
You will have to get a boat back, try to find a place on a returning tour or get the bus.
Bus and Motorbike or Tuk Tuk
There is a bus that can take you from Cartagena to Pasacaballos which is just 10 minutes from Barú’s popular Playa Blanca. The bus will go from the India Catalina monument alongside the San Felipe castle, past Caribe Plaza mall and Bazurto market. The journey time is around 90 minutes.
The bus doesn’t have air conditioning and is quite uncomfortable but for not much more than a dollar, it is definitely an affordable option. You should ask the bus driver where to get off for Playa Blanca as it isn’t very clear. When you get off there will be lots of people offering to take you to Playa Blanca, the price should be around 10,000 COP (US$2.50).
This is how many locals will get to the beach but as you can see it is not the easiest, particularly if you have limited Spanish.
Best time to visit the Rosario Islands
The best times to visit the Rosario Islands are during the driest season, particularly in December and January, which boast the most sunshine and slightly elevated temperatures.
Cartagena doesn’t have the clearly defined seasons you would expect in the northern hemisphere although there are some variations across the year. Every day is either warm or hot with heavy downpours fairly regular but clearing up quickly as the strong sunshine returns.
The dry season in Cartagena and the nearby islands runs from December to March while from October into early November there is the highest chance of rain. In October there is rain on average 15 days per month. December and January have the most hours of sunshine and temperatures are slightly higher from June to August.
The main school holidays are from December into early February while there is also a shorter break late June into early July plus semana santa (holy week) at the end of March.
Christmas is celebrated throughout the month of December in Colombia so there will be lots of events and parties but it is also the busiest time of year, therefore best to avoid if you can.
Last piece of advice. Avoid weekends, especially at Isla Baru and Playa Blanca, as they can become extremely crowded due to local visits.
Best Rosario islands to visit
Isla Grande
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Isla Grande is, unsurprisingly, the biggest of the 27 coral islands and islets. Isla Grande is around 200 hectares and you can comfortably walk from one end to the other along a handful of paths that cut through the forest. There is a small local village with a couple of shops and restaurants.
Hotels are generally quite spread out around the edge of the island with camping, eco and more comfortable options. There are beautiful coral reefs with clear waters, palm trees and you can get tasty cocktails. The boats arrive in the morning and leave at around 4pm, so after this time the quiet island becomes even more relaxed.
It really has the feel of a tropical island but there are also some drawbacks. You also don’t have a great variety of food options. We weren’t keen on the food on offer at our small hotel and had to travel across the island to eat at other hotels. The areas of soft, sandy beach are quite limited with corral, rocks and mangrove in most areas.
Playa Libre is the only public beach and is quite small but has nice sand. Sol y Papaya is a restaurant with a really nice white sandy beach and affordable prices. Luxury is next door with, as you will have guessed, slightly higher prices.
You can get a tour of the mangroves in a canoe where you will see a wide range of birds and unusual orange and purple jellyfish. In the evening you can also get a guide to take you to the Bioluminescent plankton, which will light up under the water as you swim at night. It is a magical experience which is really memorable.
You can also rent bicycles from most hotels to get around the island as well as snorkeling, scuba diving, kayaking or paddling.
Despite the slight inconveniences, it really does feel like a largely untouched natural paradise.
Isla Barú
Barú is very popular with locals and tourists who come for the amazing white sandy beaches.
Playa Blanca has crystal clear waters, soft white sands and backs on to tall palm trees. It is a great beach but it can also get very busy and you don’t have the same relaxed, untouched feel of other parts of Rosario.
They have some very fresh seafood but if you order before asking how much then they are likely to dream up some astronomical price. Just add a zero or two on top and see if they can make you feel so uncomfortable that you bankrupt yourself to pay for the most expensive red snapper ever caught.
There are also some larger tourist resorts in the north of Barú such as the Decameron and the Sofitel. There are more affordable bungalows on Playa Blanca beach but they are quite basic with limited fresh water and no electricity in the day. To the south of Barú you have mangroves with some quaint hotels which are more secluded and peaceful surrounded by nature.
I would strongly suggest avoiding Playa Blanca at the weekend as it gets extremely busy. When you settle on the beach find a spot as far away from the car park as possible as this is where people will gather.
You will only really find peace and tranquility on Playa Blanca late in the afternoon or early in the morning, so staying the night is the best way to enjoy your visit.
Isla Cholón
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Isla Cholón is a peninsula next to Isla Barú where Colombians head out on private boats to drink, eat and party. Private yachts and party boats come in the morning on the weekend with lots of loud reggaeton music and partying.
Vendors sell cold drinks, bottles, cocktails and barbecued seafood. I would strongly recommend bringing as much of your own alcohol and food as you can, as it is safe to say that the local sellers have very much a captive market and will push up the prices as high as they can.
During the week the island hopping tours often stop here too.
This won’t be for everyone but it can be a lot of fun as you swim, dance, drink and eat with locals who are out and about enjoying their weekend. It is loud, crammed and can be really expensive but some people will love it.
Best things to do on the Rosario Islands
- Relax on a perfect white sandy beach and enjoy the sunshine with a fruity cocktail
- Snorkel or scuba dive amongst the coral surrounded by beautiful, brightly colored fish
- Spend Sunday morning drinking, dancing and soaking in the sun on a private boat at Isla Cholón
- Enjoy some delicious seafood straight out of the sea with tasty coconut-flavored rice
- Swim at night as the water below you is magically lit by glowing plankton on Isla Grande
Visiting the Rosario Islands FAQs
Are the Rosario Islands worth visiting?
Absolutely. The Rosario Islands offer diverse experiences, from tranquil days on Isla Grande to vibrant parties at Cholón. They’re a summer haven with pristine waters, sandy beaches, fresh seafood, and refreshing drinks. Tailoring your trip to your preferences is key.
Are the Rosario Islands safe?
Generally, the Rosario Islands are very safe although Playa Blanca on Isla Barú offers a very different experience to Isla Grande.
Playa Blanca is full of sellers and restaurants who have a reputation for overcharging and aggressively demanding payment. You also have to be much more careful with your things on the packed Barú beaches. Barú is accessible by bus, car or motorbike from Cartagena which means quite a few locals go there to make money.
The other islands are all much safer. Isla Grande in particular has very good security and you can walk all over the island through the forests on the trail with no issues. Most of the residents of the island work in the tourist industry and they are keen to ensure you have a good experience.
Is it worth staying overnight on the Rosario Islands?
Definitely. While day trips are enjoyable, they can feel rushed. Staying overnight provides a serene experience, especially after day visitors depart. Waking up for an early swim in this paradise is unparalleled.
Once the day visitors have left then the islands become far more peaceful. Also, waking up in paradise and going for a morning swim is amazing.
How many nights will depend on what you want from a holiday. While there are some special activities to enjoy, most of the time will be spent swimming, sunbathing, drinking and eating fish. If that sounds like bliss then extend your stay and make the most of it but for me two full days and one night is perfect.
What do I pack for the Rosario Islands?
- Payment: While many places accept cash, internet reliability is variable. Carry sufficient cash as ATMs are scarce.
- Sun Protection: Bring sun cream and a hat.
- Beach Essentials: Pack swimwear and possibly towels, unless staying at upscale hotels.
- Clothing: Beach clubs and resorts may warrant dressier outfits, but comfort is the general trend.
- Identification: Always have a photo ID in Colombia. Retain proof of port tax payment and boat ticket for boarding.
Final Thoughts: Traveling to the Rosario Islands, Colombia
The beaches close to Cartagena really aren’t great but if you hop on a boat then you are just over an hour away from true picturesque paradise.
Each island has its pros and cons so it is important to decide what you want when planning your trip. You can party, you can relax on a sandy beach, you can drink cocktails in a fancy hotel or you can get that true deserted island experience.
A trip to Cartagena without a day or two on the Rosario Islands would be huge missed opportunity.