The Cocora Valley offers some of the most unique, spectacular views across the whole of the continent. With 200 feet, narrow wax palm trees spread across beautiful green mountains, dense forests and mysterious foggy hilltops it really offers an amazing, other-worldly experience.
I have lived in Colombia for over 15 years and visiting Cocoa with my mum was the favorite part of her trip to the country. We have been to the Amazon, Medellin, Bogota, Cartagena, Santa Marta, the Lost City, Pereira and Cali but it was Cocora that she enjoyed most.
In this article, I will explain why the place is so special, talk through what to expect on the trek and give advice on how to make the most of this remarkable experience.
I’ve located all the things I’m talking about in this guide on this map:
Getting to Cocora Valley: Transport Tips for Travelers
A trip to Cocora is an essential part of any visit to nearby Salento, which makes transport from the town very straightforward. The drive takes around 30 minutes to the valley and there are multiple options, with the Willy jeeps the most popular.
By Willy (Jeep)
The Willys have become a symbol of Salento with a classic design dating back to the 1940s and historical importance as the method of moving coffee and agricultural good around the steep hills of the region.
From Salento, you can pay 3,600 COP (less than a dollar) for a tight on a cozily packed Willy Jeep.
They have seats but there will also be a few spots at the back where you will have to hold on.
Jeeps leave regularly from 6.30am up to 4pm and will head off once the driver feels they are full.
The morning is the busiest time and there are Willys arriving, filling up and leaving very quickly.
A lot of people arrive at around 9am so you can go earlier, which is what I would advise, or leave it an hour or so.
You can pick up a Jeep from the booth on the main square in Salento and if you are unsure just ask any local and they will point you in the right direction.
You will get dropped off at the car park in the Cocora Valley which is where you can begin the trail. Make sure you get back to the same spot well in advance of 4pm to get a Jeep back or you will have to take a more expensive option.
By Taxi
It is possible to find a taxi or book an Uber from your hotel to the entrance of the trail for around 40,000 COP or US$10.
It is significantly more expensive than the Willys option but still reasonably priced for some additional comfort, particularly if you are traveling in a group.
To get from Cocora back to Salento it can be more difficult to find an Uber or a taxi so you may need to take a Jeep. After 4pm, demand for private transport obviously increases.
Driving There
You can also drive and park at the entrance to the Cocora Valley. Parking costs around 5,000 COP (US$1.25) for the day. A falling palm landed on a car this year but, that aside, in general, your car should be perfectly fine.
Driving can give additional flexibility and you should have no issues finding a parking space close to the train, horse riding and restaurant.
When to Visit Cocora Valley
Ideal Seasons and Weather
The Coroa Valley welcomes visitors throughout the year but there are various factors which will impact on your experience.
Firstly, if you have the choice, avoid the busiest national holidays such as Christmas, New Years and Easter.
Salento is very pretty with Christmas lights but the cozy, charming town can get very busy. It will also be busier on three-day weekends, which Colombia has a lot of. You can find details of the 18 national holidays here.
Busy crowds can impact the magic of the scenery, cost of hotels and make transport more difficult.
The rainy season can be tough for hiking. April, October and November have the most rain with October the most difficult time with 8.3 inches of rain on average. Heavy rain can make the hike a lot more difficult and the area around the Quindio River can close because of the high water level and potential for landslides.
August and September are probably the best months to visit with nice weather and lower crowds. Temperatures throughout the year remain comfortable at around 16-20°C degrees (60-68°F). You may need a light jacket for the rain and something warm in the evening but hiking in a t-shirt is usually fine all year.
Mornings Are Better
Due to the high elevation, the Cocora Valley runs from 1,800 meters (5,905 feet) at the base to 2,400 meters (7,874 feet) at its highest point.
Weather can be quite unpredictable. You can have perfect sunshine one minute then heavy fog and rain the next.
Be prepared for everything during your visit but it is best to start early as the worst weather often comes in after 3pm into the late afternoon. You can be back at the hotel enjoying a well-earned hot bath while others are searching for transport in the rain.
Best Things to Do in Cocora Valley
➡️ The Complete Trek in Cocora Valley (12km)
The full trek is around 12 kilometers and should take between 5 and 7 hours depending on your fitness level.
You have the choice of going clockwise or counterclockwise.
To go clockwise, head up the direct track where the jeeps drop you off past the restaurants and shops, following the COCORA sign. You then pay the entrance fee (5,000 COP) and head left to the wider track which is the start of the loop heading towards the palms.
For the counterclockwise route, you cross the road and head down the less busy pass going through a blue gate. You pass some restaurants and get to a small building where you pay the 5,000 COP entry fee.
Opinions are divided on what is the best choice – clockwise means you get to see the palms first when the weather is clearest but counterclockwise means you head down into the valley as the finale of the experience. You will have to pay 5,000 COP (US$1.25) to begin the trek and then an additional 6,000 COP (US$1.50) as you cross private property on the way.
The clockwise route includes the following:
Bosque de las Palmas (Palm Forest) is your first stop on the clockwise route. The incredible, impossibly tall and narrow trees are scattered all across the rich green landscape. You will usually have the clearest weather in the morning so you can take some amazing pictures.
After the wax palms, you will head up the hill and you can stop at 2 viewing points (miradors) to see the mountains. The second viewing point is around 1 km after the first with nice views of El Pino, the tallest point on the trek.
After the second viewpoint (mirador), you head into thick forest which shifts from pine forest to more tropical jungle.
Look out for colorful birds in the trees. You will reach a ranger station which is around the halfway point of the trek and this is when you are entering the private land of Finca La Montana.
You will see signs to the Acaime Reserva de Colibries (Acaime Hummingbird Reserve) which is 1 km from the main trail. The cost is 20,000 COP (US$4) per person which includes a coffee or hot chocolate. This is optional but can be a nice additional experience and they have beds available to stay overnight.
The next section of the trek includes 6 bridges which, depending on the time of year, can be over some deep, fast-moving river. The bridges look straight out of an adventure movie with missing pieces but that is all part of the experience. During the rainy season, you may also get your feet wet as you follow the path in this area.
After crossing the final bridge on the right you will see a signpost to “Cascada Bosque de Niebla” (Waterfall of the Fog Forest). This is a very short detour from the main route down a slippery mud path to quite an impressive waterfall amongst the trees.
The final section is mostly flat across open farmland with cows, horses and birds. You get your final look at the incredible palms and it is around 5 and a half kilometers of easy terrain until the end.
➡️ Wax Palm Trail (6km)
If you want to just spend a couple of hours enjoying the best views of the amazing palms then you can take the direct route to the Bosque de las Palmas (forest of the palms) which begins on the left of the blue gate directly on the road.
It takes around 30 minutes to arrive at the main wax pal area and you continue for around an hour to get to the end of the area with the trees.
Along the way, there are various viewing points and some areas laid out for photos. In total, it should take around 2 to 2 and a half hours to fully explore this area and get back to the car park.
➡️ Horseback Riding
A guided horseback ride around the spectacular scenery can be an excellent alternative to the fairly challenging hike.
Cocora Tours have a range of options including a 1-hour ride through the forest (50,000 COP – US$12.50), a 1 hour ride up to the viewing area and the river (US$80,000 – US$20), a 1-hour 50 minute trek or the viewing point and the river (110,000 COP – US$28) and the full 3 hours and 30-minute tour to all points of interest for 220,000 COP (US$59).
You can find details on a number of websites but you can reserve directly and save a lot of money by visiting their official website here. You have to pay at least 50% of the total cost when making the reservation and the rest on the day of your trip. You can pay for an English-speaking guide for US$25.
The Cocora Tours stables are just 5 minutes walk from the main car park and while reserving is advised you may be able to book on the day in person.
➡️ Mountain bike ride
When I recently visited the Cocoa Valley with my mum we decided to book a mountain biking tour which proved to be a great choice.
We met at the Salento Cycling Centre which is at the edge of town here in the morning. We all piled into a 4×4 which carried our bikes on the back. They drove us high up into the hills above the Cocora Valley and we had multiple rides down on dirt tracks and stoney paths.
There were a couple of alternate routes where more experienced riders could test themselves but generally, it was fast, fairly smooth and always with amazing views. My mum is in her 60s and she found it a fun challenge while the very experienced cyclists also had a great time.
They provided a picnic which we enjoyed on a secluded high surrounded by the magnificent palms. They boast that you “never have to pedal” as it is all downhill across the 5-hour experience.
The total cost including all transfers for this experience was 220,000 COP with lunch and a drink included.
Tips for the Cocora Valley Trek
Some general tips for your visit to the Cocora Valley:
- It costs 6,000 COP to enter the valley and an additional 5,000 COP midway through the trek making the total cost 11,000 COP per person for the full route.
- Starting the trek early in the morning is recommended to avoid crowds.
- Be mindful of the altitude, which can reach nearly 3,000 meters, causing shortness of breath. Stay hydrated and avoid overexertion.
- The downhill path to the Hummingbird House can be challenging with mud and rocks.
- The weather in the valley is unpredictable, so bring warm clothes and a raincoat.
- Sturdy footwear is essential due to some difficult terrain
- The only refreshment point is the Hummingbird House, off the main trail. Carry enough water and snacks for the hike.
Food Options
1. Restaurante Bosques de Cocora (Donde Juan B)
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The restaurant is situated close to the tall palms in a beautiful setting. Prices are a little steep, as you would expect in a tourist spot with little competition, but the food is generally of a good quality. The trout is a specialty and is fished from the nearby lake.
Go for something typical of the region and you should be quite pleased with the quality. It can get busy so there may be a little wait but portions are suitably generous after a challenging hike.
2. Restaurante EcoHotel Las Palmas
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This restaurant is another option on the trek around the valley.
Trout is their specialty and is prepared in 15 different dishes. They also have beef and chicken plus seafood casserole. It is also possible to stay the night here in tents, glamping or one of their cabins.
3. Picnic
Another excellent option is to make a picnic and take it with you. You can buy bits and pieces in Salento at one of the small stores and bring a flask of coffee to warm you up.
This offers the most flexibility and there are plenty of spots along the way to relax and enjoy an amazing view.
For example here:
