Cartagena is one of Colombia’s most popular cities with tourists and visitor numbers continue to rise every year. With its incredible old town surrounded by colonial walls, rich culture, delicious food, lively party scene and dozens of beautiful, tropical islands it is easy to see why it is a popular option.
I have lived in Colombia for 15 years and visited the city regularly. I will explain what I like best about Cartagena and why I keep coming back as well as outline why my mum isn’t a fan and why it might not be for you.
Is Cartagena (Colombia) Worth Visiting?
Absolutely, Cartagena, Colombia, is a must-visit destination, renowned for its remarkable history and splendid colonial architecture, complemented by perpetual sunshine. Ideal for a short break, visitors can immerse themselves in a wealth of experiences, even in just a few days.
While there are other places I personally prefer, I do understand why this magical, historic city is so popular with visitors.
The city captivates with its:
- Stunning Islands: Explore the beautiful nearby islands.
- Culinary Delights: Savor the exquisite local cuisine.
- Vibrant Music Scene: Dance to the rhythm of captivating live music.
- Breathtaking Sunsets: Witness spectacular sunsets that paint the sky.
- Rich History: Dive into the fascinating historical narratives of the city.
Reasons Why Cartagena is Worth Visiting
1) Tropical year round sunshine
Cartagena is warm and sunny with the occasional torrential downpour all year round. Every month of the year averages close to 30 degrees C (86° F). It is always beach weather, you will always be able to get a tan and go swimming.
Cartagena is a coastal city surrounded by islands with the perfect weather to experience all of that.
The rain can be heavy but usually comes and goes quickly. October is the wettest month and there is the least rain between December and April.
2) Amazing architecture and charming streets
Cartagena’s old town is surrounded by Las Murallas, the 400-year-old fortified stone walls built to protect the city from pirates. The wall runs for 8 miles in total and encircles the whole of the downtown area.
Within the old town, every building reflects the long history of the city. Most in Spanish colonial style but some republican and Italian-influenced constructions. Every street is incredibly picturesque and you can wander around marveling at the beauty.
Narrow streets open up to plazas with statues, churches and clock towers. Cartagena’s old town is eternally beautiful and full of charm.
3) Explore the beautiful, relaxing Rosario Islands
You will find 27 small, amazing islands less than an hour from Cartagena on a fast but bumpy speedboat ride.
The Rosario islands have white sands, turquoise waters and have retained their natural beauty with forests, trees and animals. Development and hotel construction has been carefully managed on the islands which means you still have the feel of stepping onto a deserted, tropical island.
I stayed on Isla Grande with my mum and we had a great time. Hotels range from low-key but high-quality to quaint (slightly uncomfortable) wooden cabins on the beach. We unintentionally opted for the latter but it added to the adventure. As the name would suggest, Isla Grande is the biggest of the Rosario Islands but you can walk from one end to the other in less than an hour.
The local community living on Isla Grande are very friendly and the center of town has a handful of restaurants and one small supermarket. The islands really are incredibly relaxing and there is nobody pushing you to buy anything which means you can really take in the amazing views.
4) World-class fine dining
Cartagena’s colonial walled city was once a thriving international trade port and that tradition has resulted in a thriving culture of eclectic fusion cuisine.
The seafood is always incredibly fresh and there are many talented chefs who have combined local favorites with fresh, inventive flair.
Colombia generally doesn’t have the international culinary reputation of Peru or Mexico, the food is of good quality but quite simple – hearty and comforting rather than complex and innovative. Cartagena is definitely set apart from the rest of the country in this regard.
Some highly recommended restaurants include:
- Sierpe Cocina Caribe for beautifully presented fresh seafood dishes in a relaxed atmosphere
- La Cocina de Pepina is a popular local spot that prepares top costeño favorites such as coconut rice, patacones (fried plantain), avocado and grilled bass with affordable prices.
- Restaurante 1621 for a delicious six-course tasting menu with amazing desserts, pastries and perfectly paired wine options set in a restaurant filled with classic elegance
- La Cevicheria for generous portions of delicious seafood options with friendly staff and a great atmosphere
- Doña Lola for amazing seafood dishes with influences from Peru and Spain in an elegant, airy setting
Cartagena also has excellent international restaurants with authentic Cuban, Peruvian, Spanish, Argentine and Asian options.
5) Great live music
Cartagena’s old town and nearby Getsemani neighborhood have plenty of amazing venues for a diverse range of live music performances.
Cafe Havana is the most famous spot for live salsa and it really has incredible atmosphere. Full live bands with multiple singers play the hits in a beautiful venue in the style of 1950s Havana. It can get busy on weekends and there is an US$8 entry fee but it is well worth it. The cocktails are great too.
Tertulia is another stylish, classic live salsa venue on Calle Media Luna in Getsemani. With records on the walls, a large band and lots of style it is a great place for a drink and a dance. Also need to give a mention to Donde Fidel, a small traditional salsa bar just inside the main entrance to the old town, and Quiebra Canto, another lively salsa spot.
You can enjoy some amazing live champeta at Calle Adentro, a popular bar with a large open-air space over two stories, or Bazurto Social Club, where you can learn some steps before enjoying the party.
Champeta is a very popular local musical style with influences that date back to the early 1970s when West African sailors docked in Cartagena and Barranquilla, sharing their favorite music with the locals such as Nigeria’s Fela Kuti and Prince Nico Mbarga, Cameroon’s Louisiana Tilda and the Ivory Coast’s Ernesto Djédjé.
The champeta emerged in the following decades, combining these African influences with dancehall, merengue, Afro-Colombian and indigenous influences. This music really represents the energy and diversity of Colombia’s Caribbean coast.
You can also enjoy some more familiar rock classics at Clock Pub or amazing jazz in the New York speakeasy-styled Members Only bar.
6) Fascinating history
Cartagena has centuries of fascinating, vibrant and turbulent history which you can feel as you walk through the beautiful back streets of the old town.
I would strongly recommend the free walking tour where you can learn the stories behind all of the historically important houses, churches and squares of the old town.
You can also visit San Basilio de Palenque, the first free African town in the Americas which was founded in 1619 when enslaved people escaped and established the community. The residents resisted Spanish rule and helped other African people to escape Cartagena and settle in the town. You can spend the day in the town learning about Palenque music, food, creole language, culture and art.
Finally, you can get a tour of the Castle of San Felipe de Barajas which was built in 1657 by the Spanish to overlook the town and try to resist British and French invasions. You can get a guided tour around the castle, learn about the history and take some great pictures from the top.
7) Boat parties surrounded by crystal clear waters
At the weekend many locals and visitors head out on rented or owned boats to party with music and drinks.
El Cholón is a small beach on one of the Rosario Islands which brings together boats and yachts across the weekend. They have nice seafood on sale and the boats all park up close together to enjoy the sun, the music, the drinks and have fun.
It is possible to arrive in a public boat, as part of a private tour or on your own rented boat. It is a lot of fun but it is very much a party experience, albeit surrounded by incredible natural beauty.
Some visitors have complained about the exorbitant prices for food and drink. Bring your own bottles if you are able and when ordering from a bar always ask the price in advance. If you order anything on almost any beach in Cartagena without confirming the price in advance, you will be overcharged.
Why You Should Not Visit Cartagena?
1) Too many tourists and too crowded
Almost 20% of all foreign tourists who come to Colombia visit Cartagena, making it the third most popular destination behind the capital Bogotá and Medellín. Cartagena’s tourists spend almost all of their time in the old town, the adjoining Getsemani neighborhood and Bocagrande.
In these small areas you are constantly surrounded by tourists and many of the locals are there trying to extract as much money as they can from the visitors. Whether it is selling food, boat trips, massages, drinks, braids, souvenirs or rap performances, it feels like someone is always trying to get your money from you.
Costeños (people from the coast) are friendly, charismatic, warm people but those in Cartagena’s tourist zones are often quite cynical about foreign visitors. They have seen many many thousands come and go – the good, the bad and the ugly.
There is a fair amount of apathy, resentment and disdain for the constant parade of foreigners and it can create a distance which can be difficult to overcome. Generally making friends and connecting with the locals is incredibly easy in Colombia. That isn’t always so true in Cartagena.
Cartagena is massively unequal and I do respect the hustle of the locals, but I am blonde and it is exhausting.
2) Streets sellers can be aggressive
Building upon the previous point, walking across Bocagrande beach is exhausting. Within seconds three competing vendors will be trying to drag you towards their sunbeds and umbrellas.
Once you are settled every thirty seconds a passing local will grab your arm to give a “free” massage, then someone will wave a lobster in your face, another will offer the drug of your choice and then will be promised the best price discounted excursions.
Honestly, I do respect the hustle.
Cartagena has massive inequality and these are people looking to support their family. That said, I have seen prices 15x higher than they should be and I have seen vendors threatening tourists if they don’t pay up for things they don’t want.
I have been all over and I have only ever seen this in Cartagena. The city has become notorious with visitors from across Colombia for this and it does really impact upon your enjoyment.
3) The city’s beaches are nothing special
As well as being filled with aggressive vendors often offering extortionate prices, the beaches of Bocagrande are really not that great. The waves are quite strong, the sea isn’t very clear and the sand is a dark brown color.
It is fine to enjoy the sun with a beer and you can cool off in the sea but it really doesn’t compare to the islands or other parts of Colombia.
4) Heavy rain and flooded streets
The sun is great but when it rains, it really rains.
All plans are immediately canceled and the streets in the old town become flooded and difficult to navigate.
Often the heaviest storms are at night and it can clear the air for the following day but storms can destroy your carefully made plans in an instant.
Conclusion: Is Cartagena Really Worth Visiting?
While it isn’t my favorite place in Colombia, Cartagena has a unique charm and beauty which is definitely worth experiencing. Much of what the city has to offer can be experienced over 4 or 5 days, so I wouldn’t commit too much of your schedule to Cartagena if you have limited time.