The Lost City is found deep in the jungle of the Colombian Sierra Nevada high up in the mountains. To experience this unique ancient wonder, you have to trek for days through land owned by indigenous communities, claiming mountains and crossing rivers.
I have lived in Colombia for 15 years and I went on this amazing adventure with my mum when she was visiting from the UK. We have been fortunate enough to go to maybe amazing destinations but the Lost City was particularly special.
In this article I will talk about the experience, the difficulty, give some tips and explain why I think it is well worth the effort.
Introduction to the Lost City Trek
The Lost City really does feel like an adventure and as if you are uncovering something special. To get to Machu Pichu you take a train and then a bus, many of the Egyptian pyramids are set just outside of major cities and stonehenge is between a visitors center and a motorway.
What makes the Lost City particularly impactful is the full experience. You trek through amazing, almost untouched nature, you cross rivers, you climb ancient steps, you sleep surrounded by animals and you meet the descendents of those who built Teyuna over a thousand years ago. The indigenous communities of the region retain many beliefs, traditions and cultural practices.
Teyuna, as the Lost City is called by the local community, is built upon 169 terraces which rise above the jungle canopy. The circular plazas at the peak are linked with tiled roads with steps heading up and down. It is believed that between 2,000-8,000 people lived in the ancient city which was the spiritual and administrative center for the Tairona people.
They were known for their crafts and goldsmithing but they also had a reputation as proud, tough warriors. There were initial attempts to appease the Spanish conquistadors but their pursuit of the gold and wealth of the indigenous people resulted in conflict.
War and disease forced the Tairona people from Teyuna in around 1500 and, while they returned sporadically in secret for religious ceremonies, the once great city was largely lost to history.
In 1972 the world rediscovered the remarkable site when a family of looters struck gold. When priceless ancient artifacts appeared on the local black market authorities and archaeologists investigated, ultimately discovering the truth of this amazing find.
It wasn’t until 2005 that regular tourist access was established as the area was controlled by left-wing guerrilla groups and paramilities. Today the government works with the indigenous communities to ensure they retain control and access of their sacred lands. Tours are only permitted with registered guides who have to pay to support the indigenous communities and the number of visitors is limited.
Journey to the Trek’s Starting Point
Most tours have a meeting point in Santa Marta with transportation provided to Mamey or “machete” as the town is locally known. We met the group at the tour office and then took a jeep to the start of the trek.
When we arrived at Mamey we sat down at a restaurant for a drink and a final snack before setting off. The bags were packed onto the back of donkeys who would walk to the camps we stayed at along the way. We learnt about the history of the town and about the violent uprising that earned Mamey the nickname “machete”.
The town and the region in general was once dominated by guerilla groups and paramilitaries. Mamey was once a strategic point between the mountains and the sea for drug trafficking. Today the town is now focused on tourism and security has improved hugely.
We met our guide and we were informed that the translator was sick so I became the unofficial interpreter for the trek. Our group had an international mix of Colombian, German, Dutch, Mexican, English and American visitors. Most had poles, professional looking gear and sensible shoes. I had a vest and gym trainers which would quickly turn irreversibly brown and muddy.
Day 1: The Beginning of the Adventure
The first day is a steady climb which is mostly uphill. The biggest challenge is the sun as much of this initial section does not have tree coverage. The path is mostly smooth but there are some clay areas which can get very muddy and sticky. As long as you have a hat and some sun cream, the trek is much easier if the weather is dry.
You get some great views over green valleys on the way up. The initial stretch is 8 km mostly uphill but with few challenging obstacles. This may be the most challenging section as it is just about moving forward and pushing through. It should take between 3 and 4 hours depending on your group.
The first night will be spent in Adan Camp which is set alongside the Honduras river. As long as you have made decent time, you should be able to have a nice swim surrounded by jungle before settling in for dinner. There is a natural pool at the camp which is perfect for swimming and cooling off.
Dinner is served on benches with vegetarian options available. Expect chicken or fish with rice, salad and plantain alongside juice, water, panela or natural lemonade. Beds are wooden with thin mattresses surrounded by mosquito nets. They are quite cozy and there are usually some hammocks to relax.
Day 2: Deeper into the Sierra Nevada
On the second day you cover 14 km in total to the Paraiso Camp which is the closest to the Lost City. In the morning there is a 3 and a half hour trek to Mumake or Wiwa camp for lunch and then another 3 and a half hours in the afternoon.
Much of the trek is deeper within the jungle and the route roughly passes alongside the Buritaca river towards Paraiso. The shade helps and it feels as though the second day is split into 4 sections with a mix of uphill and downhill parts. While the second day is longer it feels more manageable and, aside from getting stuck in the mud, I felt like I was getting into the swing of this whole hiking thing.
Along this section of the trek you will also meet indigenous families who continue to retain traditions which have been preserved for centuries. You should be respectful about taking photos and the local communities will go about their business largely unperturbed by the sudden influx of exhausted, sunburnt Europeans in recent years.
Tourism provides an important source of income and the community leaders play a key role in ensuring the tours respect local cultures and their way of life. You will see locals carrying a bag of dried coca leaves which they mix with lime powder in poporos they wear around their neck. They can then suck this powder throughout the day to get energy.
Your guide will likely invite you to try some coca leaves which can help with altitude and give energy. Cocaine is illegal and potentially dangerous but coca is not prohibited and is a well established local remedy.
In this section you will have to cross rivers and head deeper into the jungle. If the water level is high then there are cages which visitors sit in and are sent across the river. It looks a little bit rickety but they are safe and get the job done.
Camp Paraiso is located by the river and is again simple but comfortable. You may also stay at Paso Lorenzo. Some camps have hammocks and some have wooden beds both with mosquito nets.
Day 3: The Ascent to the Lost City
On the third day you will start very early and begin your ascent up to the famous Lost City which is just 1 km from the camp. After a 4.30am start you travel a short distance to the 1,250 steps which lead to the ancient wonder.
At this time the air is cool and refreshing. The steps can be challenging and a little slippery but with a good consistent rhythm you should be able to make it up without any problems. It is incredible to think of people hundreds of years ago making the same journey.
At the top of the steps you will arrive at the lower chambers of Teyuna. A guide will show you around and tell you stories which have been passed on through generations. The Wiwa, Kogi, Arhuaco and Kankuamo people who continue to live in the region are direct descendents of the Tayrona and share their history and many beliefs.
The upper chambers of the city are where you will find the remarkable flat circular plateaus set surrounded by wild jungle. It is an incredible sight and you get a perfect view down towards the sea and Santa Marta.
It really does feel special and you really feel like you are on an adventure. While there are other visitors around, you can always find a space to take in the view in peace and reflect. I have been to Machu Picchu and while the town is more expansive and intact, it does feel like you are in a major tourist destination. It is amazing but it doesn’t feel quite as special.
The Lost City still feels as though you have discovered it. You have spent days trekking through the jungle to uncover some magic with a long, beautiful, important and at times tragic history.
Day 4: The Return Journey
The trek back to Mamey is 12.7km and that means another early start to the day. On the way back there is a chance to grab some fresh fruits and juices along the way plus a quick river swim. There are lots of ups and downs with the start of the trek covered by the jungle and then the final stretch out in the sun.
When we did the trek the group ended up quite split up on the final stretch with those capable keen to get down and get their shoes off. Others wanted to take their time with that long downhill path challenging in the hot sun.
On the bus ride back to Santa Marta everyone was quiet but content with the achievement. We decided to book a very comfortable hotel for our return to the town with the comfortable bed, air conditioning and cool pool a welcome reward.
Assessing the Trek’s Difficulty
The trek is challenging but doable for most people with a bit of determination and a decent level of fitness. My mum was 55 at the time and neither of us have any experience with treks or climbing. We were a little intimidated by the professional boots, sticks and stretching at the start but we made it.
The first hour is probably the hardest and it can be a little intimidating. It is all uphill and all directly under the sun (or the rain if you are lucky / unlucky). From then on things get into a rhythm and it feels as though a tricky uphill section is always followed by a much easier downhill stretch. I can’t imagine this is by design but it never feels overwhelming.
Just take each 90 minute or so stretch as it comes and it is a rewarding, enjoyable experience.
Campsites and Accommodations
There are usually 2 possible campsites that your group can take each evening. This can depend on timing, availability and the number of days. Some have the choice of hammocks or wooden beds and that comes down to personal preference. I preferred the bed to sleep and the hammock to relax.
Given the circumstances, the food is very good. Don’t expect a wide array of complex flavors but it is filling, hearty and traditional. Chicken or fish with rice, plantain and salad is a typical Colombian lunch and it does the job. Along the way you can pick up some fruit and juices if you want something sweet and refreshing.
Best Time to Undertake the Trek
The park is closed in September as the indigenous communities have exclusive access to complete important religious and cultural rituals in Teyuna.
The dry season is between December and March but you may still get some downpours during these months. Even during the rainy season you can expect the sky to clear for some beautiful views. The rain is refreshing and can be welcome at times but a lot of rain does add significantly to the difficulty with slippery and sticky mud at times.
Packing Essentials for the Trek
You can leave luggage and anything you won’t need in the office of the tour company and pick it up at the end. I would recommend taking the absolute minimum in terms of clothes, a change of clothes you keep in a waterproof bag is a good idea for after you have showered in the evening. The clothes you use in the day will be wet, dirty and sweaty but don’t worry, everyone will be the same.
Change of underwear, some fresh socks, swimming costume and you can take a thin sweater for the evenings in the cooler air up the hill. You can wear a waterproof jacket but the rain is usually quite welcome and we didn’t bother.
Hiking shoes are of course preferable but I wore trainers and my mum wore converse without any real problem. There will be mud and don’t expect to wear them out to a restaurant when you are back to Santa Marta.
There is no signal for almost the entirety of the trek so don’t expect to be able to use your phone for much. There are charging points at all the camps but they aren’t always particularly reliable and can be limited. Save your battery as much as possible.
Conclusion: Why I Recommend the Lost City Trek
This was a special experience for me with my mum and one I will remember forever.
It was a physical challenge and an adventure with amazing views. The landscape was beautiful and varied with rivers, mountains and jungle.
Climbing the ancient steps into a lost mountain city was an amazing experience and the dramatic, almost completely untouched setting made it feel like I was discovering the site for the first team.
Overall I would thoroughly recommend this experience. Achieve something, experience something unique and then go to the beach for some beers and a well earned rest.