I consider myself to be incredibly fortunate to call Medellin my home. I have visited hundreds of towns and cities in Europe, Asia, Africa and the Americas but I can honestly say Medellin is my favorite. I have been here for almost 15 years and I have no plans on leaving.
I am overwhelmingly positive about the city but I do recognize there are issues which make living in this amazing place a challenge at times. I will discuss what for me are the biggest pros and cons about Medellin to help you decide if it is right for you.
The Pros of Living in Medellin
1) The great weather all year long
Medellin is known as the ‘city of eternal spring’ for its very comfortable year round temperatures. There are the occasional downpours, particularly during the rainy seasons between April to June and September to November, but in general the weather is almost perfect.
It is almost always warm enough to swim in an outdoor pool but very rarely overwhelmingly hot to prevent you from having a fun or productive day. You can get a tan but you won’t be sweating in the shade. The rain can be heavy and fairly frequent at times but it almost always clears within a few hours and the following day can be warm once again. The weather is almost always warm and comfortable.
2) The efficient metro system
Despite the occasional inconveniences, Medellin is generally a city that works and that really is key. I have been to many places I think are great but good infrastructure and sensible urban planning makes Medellin incredibly liveable.
The city has a metro line that runs from North to South alongside the river, which also has the main highway. There is a second metro line that connects in the central San Antonio station which heads off to the West close to the stadium and Laureles. The city now has 5 cable cars that provide direct links from the metro to the hills with a sixth that links to a natural park. There is a tram that goes from San Antonio up to the east of the city and a further tram planned for 80th street to the west.
The transport system is clean, modern, air conditioned and a source of pride for the people of the city. You can cross the city quickly and it is often a better option during rush hour.
Even if you decide to walk, cycle, drive or take taxis around the city, you will benefit from the excellent urban transport network as it reduces congestion and pollution. The Metro is a symbol of progress and development which was recognized as Medellin named as the world’s Most Innovative City in 2013.
3) Free sports facilities and a focus on an active lifestyle
People in Medellin love to be active and spend time outside. Football is obviously the biggest passion but the city is also world-famous for cycling and takes sport and exercise very seriously.
On Sunday mornings some of the major streets in the city are closed and turned into tracks for running and cycling. You will see thousands of individuals, families and pets out enjoying the sun and being active together.
Sports pitches and courts are also available throughout the city to rent for free from the government administrator INDER. You will find swimming pools, tennis courts, baseball fields, beach volleyball, gymnastics, basketball courts and multiple stadiums at the Unidad Deportivo Atanasio Girardot Sports Complex for example.
In every single neighborhood across the city you will find modern astroturf football pitches of all sizes as well as concrete micro futbol courts. There are also thousands of sports teams plus free dance, running and sports classes available throughout the week organized by the local government.
4) An upbeat soundtrack and fun loving spirit
Medellin is a city full of music and dance. The city has become almost the spiritual home for reggaeton music with J Balvin, Maluma, Karol G and Ryan Castro all growing up in the city. Beyond reggaeton you will hear salsa, merengue, bachata, vallenatos, rock, afrobeat, hip hop, electronic music from every bar and club.
The soundtrack to the city gives great energy and people always try to find time to enjoy themselves, even when times are tough. If you are in a bar then everyone will dance with everyone. In Europe dancing with someone can suggest you like them or create a bit of tension. Here dancing is dancing. If a lively grandma wants to dance with you, it would be rude to say no but it is all in good humor.
5) Fresh fruit and juices
While typical Medellin food may not be the most creative or intricate, the freshness and variety of ingredients is superb. You can walk down the street and sellers will be offering avocados the size of your head for a tiny fraction of what you would pay abroad. If you go to the minorista, a covered indoor market downtown, you will find piles of delicious fruits on sale that you have never seen before.
You can enjoy delicious and healthy maracuyá (passionfruit), gulupa (the cousin of maracuyá), uchuva (golden berries with a long list of medical benefits), zapote (full of fibre), pitaya (dragon fruit), mangostino (Queen victoria’s soft, tangy favorite), borojó (known as ‘nature’s viagra’) and lulo (tangy, citrus and perfect for juices).
There are plenty of opportunities to get creative and adventurous or you can just stick to fresher, tastier, healthier versions of the fruit and vegetables you are used to in the US or Europe. It is easier to enjoy a healthier outdoor lifestyle in Medellin and eat very well.
6) The importance of family, community and free time
I am from London and this is something in particular which is very different to my experience back home. In Colombia things like visiting family, drinking a beer with friends after work and mixing with neighbors is highly valued. These are essential parts of the week for people across the city, whether they are rich or poor.
The kindness, warmth and generosity of people in the city means that if you are open and look to connect, you will very quickly be welcomed into the group. After living here for years I am considered part of many families. It can be difficult living a long way away from home but you will find people here will welcome you and make you feel you have found a new home.
7) The lower cost of living
This is obviously a massive benefit to living in Medellin, particularly if you are able to earn in dollars, euros or international currency. The exchange rate means that despite quite significant inflation and rising costs, anyone with foreign currency will still find most things very cheap.
Prices of accommodation in Poblado in particular are rising quickly and that is being felt but what is expensive for many locals may feel comparatively affording.
8) Escaping to the country at the weekend
Medellin sits inside a broad valley with narrow roads and houses squeezed in up to the top of the surrounding hills. If you leave the valley you are suddenly in the middle of the beautiful green countryside.
Head to the North and the temperature steadily rises as you leave the city behind while if you venture out of the valley to the east, you will feel the air cooling. When people are tired of the heat of the city they will head for a cozy weekend retreat in cooler regions of Antioquia while if they want to enjoy the sun around the pool they will head towards towns such as Santa Fe.
Medellin is surrounded by mountains, rivers and wonders such as El Peñón de Guatapé. You can live in the heart of the city and be less than an hour away from incredible nature and fun outdoor activities.
9) Regional pride and identity
The people of Medellin and the Antioquia region are proudly paisa and feel a real sense of pride for what their culture represents. If there is a positive news story then this will be widely shared and the people are desperate to change the negative perception of the city internationally and celebrate all of the amazing things that Medellin has to offer.
Tim Vickery, a British sports journalist based in Brazil, once told a story about his time in Medellin which resonated with me and was reflective of my experience. As he was leaving the city having visited to report on football here he spoke to the taxi driver about how much he had enjoyed his time. They spoke about football, listened to salsa music and had a good conversation.
When they arrived at the airport, one of the most lucrative journeys a taxi driver can take, the Colombian driver refused his money. Instead he gave him the CD with the music they had enjoyed and asked him to tell the world about his experience and to show people the city is not what they think.
Perceptions of the city have improved since but that pride and drive to show the city at it’s best remains. If you walk half a block with the corner of a 2,000 peso note hanging out of your pocket I guarantee you will be quickly stopped in your tracks with a tap on your shoulder. A local will ask you to take care with your money in case someone takes it from you. They want you to leave happy and to share the love they have for their city.
10) Eternal positivity and resilience
Linked to the previous point, the thing that I find so impressive and refreshing in Medellin is the eternal positivity of the people.
I am from London where the humor is based upon laughing about everything wrong in the world and everyone’s favorite pastime is grumbling about the weather. This pessimism and gallows humor can be fun but I love that people in Medellin are able to focus first on what is great in their lives.
Despite a sudden self-inflicted decline in the UK, it remains the case that the people of my adopted country have many more problems than those in my country of birth. Despite the problems, Colombia repeatedly ranks as one of the happiest countries in the world.
It isn’t that people here are unaware of the problems but rather that they remain optimistic, driven and focused on what is great and what is improving. There have been ups and downs along the way and people continue to suffer but there remains an optimism, positivity and pride which I feel inspiring.
The Cons of Living in Medellin
1) Safety concerns and crime
Colombia is much safer than it was and most people will not experience crime but the reality is that it is something that you should always be conscious of when living in the city. I am pleased to say that day to day I feel safe and comfortable in my surroundings but I do need to make sensible decisions to avoid problems.
Walking alone at night in parts of the city is dangerous. Women in particular need to be careful with taxis or walking alone. Passing motorbikes can stop and rob you for your possession in most parts of town. You hear stories of spiked drinks and Tinder dates ending in disaster.
If you take care then this is unlikely to be your experience but it is always possible and something you need to be wary of. It is hard to be truly carefree in many situations in Medellin.
2) A chronic lack of punctuality
I don’t want to generalize and some Colombians will be offended by the suggestion but then again many more will recognize this and admit it is a problem.
If you make plans at 4pm with someone then don’t be surprised if they leave their house at 4pm, even if it will take 30 minutes to arrive. If you schedule a meeting then don’t expect it to start at the time agreed.
I play in a couple of football teams. The manager will tell the players to meet at 1.30pm when the game is at 2.30pm because he expects most people to be at least 30 minutes late. I have trained my British demand for punctuality to relax and go with the flow. I know if I arrive on time then I will almost certainly be the only one there.
You just have to get used to it and try not to feel offended by what many would consider disrespectful.
3) Inequality and political tensions
This one is a bit heavier but it really is something that can impact your experience here. Despite solid economic growth and a reduction in poverty, Colombia remains the most unequal country in Latin America.
As you would expect, this creates social tensions, crime and political polarization. There is a strong sense of us and them. This can also manifest in regionalism, racism, classism and other forms of discrimination. There is resentment from those who feel left behind and fear of racial political change from those who are doing well. The regional government recognizes and seeks to compensate for this with the estrato system, where the cost of services and access to amenities is cheaper or free in lower income neighborhoods, but there remains a real lack of social mobility.
The result can be huge protests which have been aggressively repressed by the state and have exploded into violence and destruction. While older generations are focused on security and continuity, younger people are making more demands.
This isn’t something that you will experience day to day but it is a tension in society you will feel and one that always has the potential to explode.
4) Bureaucracy and inefficiency
While Medellin is a modern city, an innovative city and a center for international business, getting things done can still be frustratingly slow. This has definitely improved over the past decade but if you are coming from Europe or the US, you will find the bureaucracy painful.
Opening a business takes weeks rather than hours. Doing anything requires a huge amount of paperwork. You will find yourself having to go to notaries for almost everything and I have no idea why. The tax system is complicated and overwhelming.
This is something you will likely need help with and will at times find deeply frustrating.
5) Growing resentment towards foreigners
Finally, something that has been difficult for me to observe is a growing resentment and stigmatization of foreigners who come to Medellin.
Part of the reason for this is rising prices for apartments and accommodation in Medellin. A sort of anti-gentrification idea which I can at least understand. Another reason is the perception that foreigners come to Medellin for drugs and prostitution, and this has changed society.
On this point I think it is important to stress that these issues have always been here and are not imported but the growing number of tourists in Poblado has meant that sellers are more evident and focused on the wealthier parts of the town.
Tourism always brings tensions and I am aware that there are a good number of foreigners who have created problems. I have felt some more trepidation to embrace visitors by some but Colombia continues to be an incredibly warm, friendly and welcoming place.
There is, however, growing stigmatization of foreigners which is creating some barriers and changes in perception.