Soccer is a huge part of Colombian culture and a trip to the stadium in Medellin is truly an unforgettable experience.
The game has a massive cultural importance in the city and a big clasico brings together people from every neighborhood to celebrate and express themselves for 2 or 3 hours. I would recommend that everyone includes a trip to the stadium in their itinerary.
I have lived in Medellin for 15 years and worked in soccer for much of that time. This is my guide to Colombian fútbol, the teams, the stadiums and how to really experience the beautiful game in my favorite city.
Understanding Medellin’s Soccer Scene
Medellin is crazy about soccer and you will find evidence of this all over the city. Every bar or neighborhood store on the corner will have the game on with fans gathered around TVs shouting.
Every single neighborhood in the city has astroturf, concrete or dirt pitches from micro futbol (small goals with now keepers) up to futbol sala, to 7 a side and 11 a side. You will see men, women, boys and girls playing soccer everywhere from morning to night in Medellin.
Colombia’s professional soccer competitions
The top division in Colombian soccer is called Liga BetPlay (Categoría Primera A) and is made up of 20 teams from around the country.
Medellin has 2 teams in the top flight who play at the 45,000-seater Atanasio Giradot.
Atletico Nacional and Deportivo Independiente Medellin.
Envigado, a municipality immediately South of Medellin close to Poblado, also plays in the top division as well as Águilas Doradas, a club based in Rionegro which is close to the airport and 45 minutes from Poblado.
Each year there are 2 league tournaments, the apertura (opening) and clausura (closing) competitions.
The first league season starts at the end of January and runs up until the end of May with the top 8 teams progressing to the playoffs.
The second league season is from mid-July until mid-November followed by the playoffs.
The 8 teams who qualify for the playoffs are drawn in 2 groups of 4 with each team playing home and away. The team that finishes top of each group play the final. The 2 playoff winners meet early the following year for the Superliga.
There is also relegation down to the second division which is calculated with the points acquired over the last 6 seasons held in the last 3 years.
The second division is called Torneo BetPlay (Categoría Primera B) which has 16 teams and a very similar structure to the top flight with apertura, clausura plus playoffs. The top 2 teams in the second division get promoted to the Liga BetPlay each year.
Itagui is another municipality of Medellin, just across the river from Envigado within the valley. Itagui Leones play in the second tier of Colombian professional football.
The 2 leagues play in the Copa BetPlay (Copa Colombia) which includes all 36 professional clubs. The second division sides play rounds 1 and 2 with the top flight clubs not participating in international competitions coming in the third round and then the remaining clubs joining from the Round of 16.
The Copa is used by many clubs as a chance to give minutes to young players and clubs don’t take the competition particularly seriously until the final rounds.
The Copa Libertadores, on the other hand, is the ultimate prize for Colombia’s professional clubs. Each year the top 4 clubs in the country qualify to face the best from around South America. There are 8 groups of 4 teams with the top 2 progressing to the knockout.
South America’s equivalent to Europe’s Champions League, games are played midweek in the evenings and the atmosphere is always special.
The Copa Sudamericana is the Europa League equivalent with a similar structure and, again, midweek ties against some of the strongest clubs on the continent.
Atletico Nacional
Atletico Nacional, or Nacional for short (never just Atletico) is Medellin’s biggest club and one of the most successful in Colombian football. Known as the “kings of the cups” (rey de copas) or the Verdolaga (the big green) they have won the league title 17 times, the cup 6 times and the Copa Libertadores twice.
Nacional wear green and white vertical stripes which you will see all over the city. The club is proud to represent Medellin but also celebrates their support all over the country as representatives of Colombia on the international stage. The club has the biggest support in Medellin and expectations are very high every season.
The biggest barra (organized fan group) of Atletico Nacional is Los Del Sur (those of the South) who are based in the South end of the stadium. The barra is made up of various subgroups that represent different neighborhoods in Medellin with their own section of the stand. Los Del Sur has a leadership structure, they coordinate logistics, they have charity foundations, they prepare fireworks, flares, flags, banners and they have a huge band.
Los Del Sur also has a store within Obelisco and they sell their own merchandise with Los del Sur Siempre Presente (those of the South always present). These fans go to every game home and away to lead the songs.
Members of the Nacional barra have built a reputation for violence but they also lead a lot of the important social work in the community and have partnered with the club, government, police and rival fans to help manage security.
Deportivo Independiente Medellin
Deportivo Independiente Medellin, Independiente Medellin, Medellin or DIM (never just Deportivo) is the other big club in the city. As their name would suggest, they pride themselves on being the club of the city and representing local people. They wear red shirts with blue shorts.
Part of the club’s identity is built around rebelling and setting themselves against the dominant forces. This is reflected in the identity of their biggest barra, Rexixtenxia Norte, who have a similar structure to LDS with different neighborhood sections within a larger block.
A lot of the banners will feature x in place of letters, to show their rebellious and counter-culture identity.
DIM are slightly more associated with the north of the city and have been described as the team of the people but that slightly misrepresents the situation. There are Nacional fans from every socioeconomic background but perhaps the difference is Nacional aspire for international prestige while DIM aspire to represent the city and upset the odds.
Medellin have won the league on 6 occasions and the cup 3 times with their most recent title in 2016. While they are not consistently favorites to win the league, they are often contenders and every few years will put together a strong side that can compete.
DIM don’t have as many fans as Nacional but they are respected across Colombia for continuing to support the club even when the side is performing poorly. This is something that is unusual in the country but DIM fans always turn up in numbers.
Antioquia’s other professional clubs
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There are 3 other clubs in the region, 2 in the top division and 1 in the second division.
➡️ Envigado Futbol Club is a side that plays just South of Medellin and it is only 20 minutes from Poblado to their home ground Polideportivo Sur.
The team is internationally renowned for producing some of Colombia’s best players such as James Rodriguez, Fredy Guarin, Matheus Uribe, Frank Fabra, Jhon Duran, Jhon Cordoba, Yaser Asprilla, Juan Fernando Quintero and Dorlan Pabon. They focus on youth development and a trip to watch Envigado can give you an insight into the future superstars of world football.
Envigado’s stadium is much smaller than the Atanasio Giradot with a capacity of around 11,000. You sit on concrete terracing but are much closer to the pitch. When they face the biggest clubs, away fans may outnumber local fans but there are a growing number of locals who put Envigado as their favorite club. It is a great community club with a real identity as the Cantera de Heroes (Quarry of heroes).
You can buy tickets on their website and online through Tu boleta and they also have some of the best kits in Colombian football. Prices are usually around 50,000 COP (US$12.50) or a little more if it is against a big club who will fill the stadium.
➡️ Águilas Doradas is a club that has been consistently competitive in the top flight and in 2023 have been one of the strongest in the league. They are based in Rionegro which is a town 45 minutes from Poblado close to the airport.
They play at the 14,000 capacity Estadio Alberto Grisales close to the town of Rionegro. They have a growing but still fairly small fan base and the club lacks identity, despite their on-the-field success. The stadium is close to the pitch and it can be a good experience if it is a competitive game against a rival with a big fanbase. Tickets generally cost from 30,000 COP (US$7.45) to 50,000 COP (US$12.50) depending on the game.
You can buy tickets online at Colboletos or via the club website.
➡️ Finally, Itagui Leones play in the second division and are based in the municipality which is 30 minutes from Poblado. They play at the Itagui Metropolitan Stadium which has a capacity of 12,000 with a great view overlooking the city.
There is a running track which impacts on the experience and don’t expect big crowds.
Leones are increasingly focusing on producing young stars, with 17-year-old winger Mateo Caicedo included in the 2023 Guardian list of the top 60 soccer prospects in the world.
Tickets cost around 10,000 COP (US$2.50) and you can buy at the stadium or online at Tu Boleta.
The Colombian women’s league
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Both Atletico Nacional and Independiente Medellin have women’s clubs competing in the Liga Femenina BetPlay (Liga Femenina Profesional de Fútbol Colombiano).
Women’s football has become increasingly popular with the national team matching the very best in the world at the World Cup in 2023 and Real Madrid’s superstar winger Linda Caicedo named the best young player in the world.
Nacional women’s team usually play home games at the Atanasio Giradot while DIM play at one of the Atanasio, Polideportivo Sur (Envigado), Metropolitano (Itagui). Tickets are generally much cheaper with prices starting at 5,000 COP (US$1.25).
You can buy Nacional tickets at official Tienda Verde at the stadium or online here if you have a Colombian Cedula. Medellin tickets can be purchased on the DIM Plus app (Google Play or Apple), at the stadium or at a DIM stand.
The Colombian women’s final often sells out with 40,000+ fans in attendance. Some of my friends enjoy going to women’s games more as you still get the drums and singing but it is less of a macho atmosphere. You will find many more female fans with children plus there are many LGBT soccer supporters at the games.
Choosing a Game to Attend in Medellin
There is a huge difference in atmosphere and experience between a midweek low-profile Copa game and a huge Libertadores clash or a must-win clasico. It is a good idea to do some research to decide when and where you should head to the stadium.
How to find schedules for upcoming games
If you search “DIM FC” or “Atletico Nacional FC” on Google you should get all of the clubs’ upcoming fixtures. You can also consult Transfermarkt, Soccerway or go to the league organizer DIMAYOR’s official social media accounts (X and Instagram).
The TV channel with rights to the domestic league is Win Sports and you can find game details and video highlights here,
Tips for selecting the most exciting matches
The best atmosphere will be for playoff games (May to June and November to December), Libertadores (Tuesday to Thursday, most games April to end of June) and clasicos.
Libertadores games will usually get close to a sell-out with a great atmosphere under the lights during the week. These are the most important games for clubs and this is the most prestigious competition. The playoff games as well as cup and league finals are also obviously huge.
Clasicos are what derby or rival games are called in Spanish. The Clasico Paisa is the name for the game between DIM and Nacional, the 2 big Medellin clubs. You also have clasicos between traditional big clubs from Colombia’s big cities such as Nacional vs Millonarios of Bogotá or America de Cali. There is also a very heated rivalry between DIM and Deportivo Cali which has emerged over the last decade.
Clasicos don’t have an additional importance in terms of competitions but winning a derby gives fans bragging rights for weeks to come and these games are very tense.
Purchasing Tickets
Best ways to buy tickets
For Atletico Nacional tickets you can purchase at these locations which include the stadium, Los Molinos (close to Laureles) and El Tesoro (in Poblado).
You can also register online and purchase online here, although many foreign fans have had difficulties as their international cards are not accepted.
DIM tickets are also available online via the DIM Plus App and generally the payment process is easier to navigate for foreign visitors.
Alternatively you can purchase at the stadium or at one of their locations, including outside San Antonio Metro station. You should buy at least 6-7 hours in advance at the ground.
🚨 There will also be many ticket touts offering a range of options around the stadium. This is obviously a last resort but generally the prices are fairly reasonable (think 30% above, depending on the demand) and usually legit. There are no guarantees and there is obviously the potential to get ripped off.
If you have to go this route then check the price on the club social media in advance and shop around until you find something reasonable.
Tips on getting good seats and avoiding scams
The “populares” are the stands to the North and South which have cheaper tickets and crazier fans. Nacional’s barra occupies the South and DIM the North. These areas sell out quickest and can be exciting / intimidating depending on your perspective and how you behave.
If you have the choice I would recommend going for one of the Oriental (Eastern) or Occidental (Western) stands but trying to get a spot close to the populares.
If Nacional are playing go for the most Southerly point of the stand and if DIM then go close to the North. That way you get all of the noise and atmosphere but also a bit of space and distance.
Tickets in the Sur (South) and Norte (North) start at 25,000 COP (US$6.20), Oriental 40,000 – 60,000 COP (US$10 – 15) and Occidental up to around 100,000 COP (US$25).
Oriental is the biggest stand but has no covered seats. Occidental has slightly more amenities than Oriental, although the difference is minimal, but the key benefit is the roof above the upper tier. If you are worried about rain then go for Oriental Alta (Upper Eastern) and pick seats as far back as possible.
Taking a tour with a guide
You can find a range of tours like this one which include a stadium experience.
Some of these are recommended and they obviously take the stress out of acquiring tickets, getting in and also give some good insight into what is happening.
Preparing for the Game
What to wear
As explained above, Nacional are green and white while DIM are red and blue.
You can get shirts at official club shops (Nacional are Nike and DIM are Adidas). There are also dozens of sellers selling convincing knock-off shirts for around US$5 all around the stadium if you want a budget option.
For derbies and high-intensity games, they sometimes have additional restrictions such as taking belts off fans and things that could be thrown. I would recommend wearing comfortable footwear and a t-shirt.
Items to bring and what to leave at home
Avoid taking unnecessary, expensive things to the stadium and a lot of cash. It should go without saying but just be sensible.
There are up to 45,000 fans from every possible background drinking and getting very animated. You don’t need to be scared but don’t “da papaya” (set yourself up) either.
When heading into the stadium you may want to buy a white plastic poncho which should be available for just a couple of dollars if you fear rain. There is little cover and you will see most fans outside of the barra wearing these to stay dry if the skies open.
You can’t take alcohol into the stadium and the beer on sale inside is a zero alcohol variant.
Getting to the Stadium
Transportation options to the stadium
You can easily get the metro to the stadium with Estadio the closest stop and Suramericana also very close, both on Linea B which you can connect to by changing at San Antonio.
During the clasico, DIM fans gather to the North of the stadium outside Obelisco mall and Nacional fans on la 70. If you want to go and support specific team you should take the train to Suramericana for DIM and Estadio for Nacional.
You can also take an Uber or taxi and it takes between 25-45 minutes from Poblado depending on the time of day.
Parking information
There is a small parking lot on Carrera 74 near Obelisco but it is very small and that road can be closed on the days of big games. The best option is to park on a street in the surrounding area but you will probably need to walk a fair distance.
The only benefit of driving is having a guaranteed way of getting home after but it is rarely the most convenient option.
Experiencing the Stadium Atmosphere
The stadium is in the middle of a large sports complex with swimming pools, baseball stadiums, beach volleyball and running tracks.
On the day of the game, there will be an initial outer perimeter where tickets are checked and there will be a police search. Within this area, you can walk around the stadium to the entrance on your ticket and a final beer before entering.
There will be lines to enter each area of the stand where your tickets will be scanned and there will be a second search. You then head upstairs to your allocated seats. Staff will take you to your spot in the 2 main stands but in the South and North stands it is very much a free-for-all. In this area, nobody will be sitting during the game and you will have to squeeze in where you can.
Enjoying the Match
What to expect during the game
The barra will lead the songs with a line of fans playing drums and trumpets throughout the game. Most fans in the stadium will know the songs.
When the players enter the field the barra will launch their “hinchada”, which is a show of support and that demonstrates the size of the club. This will include a huge amount of ticker tape, waving of big flags, the unveiling of huge banners which will cover the fans in the south and north tiers, fans shooting colored smoke into the air, flares and fireworks.
The players will then line up for the national anthem and then the anthem of Antioquia, fans will sing along.
Once the game kicks off the atmosphere will settle down a little in much of the stadium but the barra will keep the energy high. When the ball goes near the goal expect everyone around you to stand up and if you want to see, you should do so too. A goal will result in a collective inhale and then wild cheering, jumping, singing and spontaneous hugging of strangers.
Tips on cheering, chants, and engaging with locals
The stadium songs will stick with you for days and weeks after you leave the stadium.
Even if you don’t understand the lyrics it will be a highlight of your trip to Colombia. Most of the songs are romantic dedications to the club, a demand to “put more eggs”, celebrations of players and history or calling the referee a “hijueputa”.
Fans will generally welcome you and appreciate you supporting their club. With the more hardcore fans, just don’t get in their way and be respectful. This is the most important 90 minutes of their week and they don’t want you ruining it. Clap along, enjoy the game and be respectful and enthusiastic and you will be embraced (potentially literally if there is a goal).
Safety and Local Customs
On the day of the clasico, tensions can be high so if you are wearing a green shirt stick to the 70 and if you are in red head to the Obelisco directly. From there you will be in a crowd of fans supporting the same team and you won’t get involved in any nonsense.
You will find some fans around the ground asking for money for tickets and Colombian football fans do have a reputation for violence. There have been some shocking and high-profile incidents but if you are sensible you will be fine. People of all backgrounds go to the stadium now and the barras work together to police themselves.
That said, be very sensible. You are in a huge crowd of potentially drunk and intoxicated young men from every part of society so things can get a little unpredictable if you are careless.
Post-Game Activities
After the game, you can head to La 70 near Estadio station where there are dozens of bars and clubs. This is where many fans will go to celebrate or commiserate.
DIM fans will initially gather outside Obelisco for a couple of drinks and then move on to somewhere more lively.
If it is a big game and you head back to Poblado then you will find thousands of fans in club shirts celebrating whether they went to the stadium or not.
Conclusion: Is It Worth It?
I would recommend everybody head to the stadium for this experience, whether you are a soccer fan or not. My friends who have never intentionally watched a soccer game in their life absolutely loved it. You see all of the passion, creativity and community spirit which makes Medellin so special.
It is a truly memorable experience whether it is a 6 goal thriller or a bore draw.